Email: clubmak@bushcampcompany.com   Phone: + (265) (1) 580244 / 580445 / 580469 
+ (265) (9) 971012 / 971016   FAX: + (265) (1) 580417   

Mua Mission


Excursion Menu


Home

.....

Introduction 

Having been born and brought up in Malawi I have been going to Mua for many years to see Fr. Boucher and listen to him explain the intricacy of Malawian culture and tradition.  Listening to him I realised just how little I knew of the people amongst whom I was born.  

Over the years I have collected a few small objects from the KuNgoni Art Centre and I have also give many more away as presents to fiends and relatives. A sculpture from Mua will be recognised any where in the world because of its uniqueness. 

More recently I have started coming to Mua accompanying paying visitors. I am always surprised by the interest that they take in the place, no matter where they come from or their background. 

I hope that these few notes will give people a better understanding of what the KuNgoni Art Centre and the Chamare Museum are trying to achieve and how important it is in the preserving of a culture and traditions that maybe even it’s own people tend to undervalue.  

I have written some myself while others I have taken from the work of Dr. Ott and Fr. Boucher. I hope they will forgive me my liberty and I sincerely hope that the reader will find them interesting in the visit to Mua. 

Giuseppe Bizzaro

 

 Mua Mission
 By Giuseppe Bizzaro 

The first catholic mission in Malawi was founded in 1889 at Mponda Village near the present day Mangochi. Its establishment is an interesting story. It was officially created on 12th August 1889 with a royal decree signed by King Luis of Portugal. At the time the scramble for Africa was in full force and boundaries had not yet been delimitated. Tension between Portugal and Britain over their respective claims was high. Without the catholic missionaries knowledge they had become the centre of a diplomatic row!  

With the Anglo-Portuguese treaty of the 20th August 1890 the area came under the British protectorate and the priests left in 1891. To make Mponda give up his habit of trading slaves British troops attacked his town on the 18 October of the same year, with 200 guns, and two small cannon, the improvised catholic chapel and school was shelled and destroyed. The military action broke Mponda’s bad habit and the new British administration set up the town of Fort Johnston (now Mangochi) to keep an eye on him. The cannons used in the action can now be seen in front of the Mongochi Police Station.  

In 1902 the White Fathers retuned to the land they had had to leave, this time they chose a site next to a small stream that would guarantee fresh water running off the highland behind the station. Mua Mission is located at the foothills of the Dedza Highlands, in the Central Region of Malawi at about 160 km from Lilongwe and about 90 km from Club Makokola.  

Livingstone had visited the site during his travels in this land, it would seem he was a guest of Chief Katosa on three different occasions. Katosa’s village used to stand where the present mission is now located.  In the fields there was many different kinds crops, but the most popular one been a sugar cane variety called Mwua by the local people. From this sugar cane it would seem comes the name Mua. The explorer, in his diary describes the chief as been very hospitable and ready to help his visitors in every possible way. He recalls the fact that he found slave traders in the same village but hastens to add that the chief was not involved in the trade.   

On the 20th May 1903 the missionaries started building the structure that we can see today. The house was built right in the middle of the village, the people agreed to move about a hundred meters from the new buildings. On 9th November the building was completed and on the 15th there was the official opening with a big feast for the surrounding villagers. The former quarters became a temporary chapel. A carpentry shop was erected and a canal was dug to irrigate the vegetable garden. The big brick church, with roman tiles was inaugurated on Christmas Day 1907. Of this church today only the foundation remain, the existing church was reconstructed on them in 1971, in 1996 the facade was restored to a design similar to that of the original church.  

In 1913 Fr. Chapmartin and Brother Omer added a second floor to the main house. In 1989 the entire mission building was severely damaged by an earthquake but by 1992 it had all been restored and reinforced in order to maintain its character as witness of its history. 

After a hundred years, Mua mission is still an important element in the life of the communities of the district. Numerous generations of fathers, sisters, brothers and lay people have toiled in the field. Today the labour continues with the same hard work and dedication. Catechists, teachers, medical assistants, midwives, nurses, lab assistants, artists, carpenters and volunteers equipped with various skills operate from the mission. 

Mua Mission has 24 churches, 82 Christian communities involved in deepening their Christian faith, in promoting dialogue and understanding with the overall community, in discovering their African roots and deep wisdom they contain, and integrating their faith to the development and the promotion of the person.  

Visitors to the mission today can see the old mission building much as it must have looked in 1913, when the second floor was completed. The old brick paved road lined with tress planted by the first missionaries leads down to a very narrow arched brick bridge that crosses the Mua stream. It is obvious that the bridge was built in the day before the motorcar, as it is so narrow as not to allow any vehicle on it. The river had been dammed just a few years after the arrival of the first mission to be able to provide hydroelectric power at the station. The canals are still visible as is the plant which though still functioning is no longer in use.  

Recently a beautiful landscape garden has been added to carry on the tradition of promoting the awareness of plant and animal life amongst the people. Mua also has the largest man made forest of fully-grown mahogany tress in Malawi, this is a legacy of the first missionaries foresight in conservation issues. An African hard wood tree takes at least one hundred years to become fully grown. This forest is a great help in ensuring a constant supply of raw materials to the artists of Mua.   

 

Layout of the Chamare Museum.

The museum is laid out in three large rondovels built around the reproduction of the original Baobab tree that is said to have stood there. The three rondovels are connected to each other by passages that reproduce a traditional village enclosure. The building itself is a demonstration of the skill and imagination of the artistic community of Mua. Most of them had no experience with building but have erected a pleasing and very complex work of art reproducing a tree, a python and the cane fences of the traditional village in cement. In the niches on the out side of the building a serial of murals illustrated the history of the area according to the local mythology, from the creation to the arrival of the first White Fathers at Mua. The name White Fathers derives from the habit they used to wear and not the colour of their skin.)

The first rondoval illustrates the activity of the mission through the years; it illustrates how enculturation began and how it is functioning. It also serves as a lecture room with projecting facilities.  Enculturation is the explaining of the Christian faith by using examples of the traditional mythology and aboriginal religious believes, it is not intended as the eradication of previous traditions but simply as the incorporation of them in the manifestations of the new faith.  

In the passage between the first and the second room there is an exhibition of photos of rock paintings found in Malawi. Some of this are very old and belong to the Batwa people that used to inhabit the region, some are much more recent and are used in initiation ceremonies.  

In the second room is the heart of the museum. Here nearly five hundred masks of the more than 1,500 collected by Fr. Boucher are on show. These are all masks that were created for use in the various ceremonies of the secret Nyau societies of the Chewa people. Each mask conveys a meaning and serves a purpose that can only be understood by the initiated to the mysteries of the society.  

Some masks exist as long as their creator and are usually buried with him when he dies while others will develop independent lives. Photography is not permitted in this room as it may offend members of the secret society if pictures of the artefacts where to appear in improper palaces.

Along the walls of the room is a series of pictures that follow the life cycle of a Chewa from birth to death through initiation, marriage, the chieftainship and the rain making ceremonies. Understanding these will help understanding the workings of Malawian society.  

In the passage between the second and the third room is a collection of picture showing the Dzalanyama Hill and the footprints imbedded in the rock of the hills. According to Chewa mythology it was here that God first put man on earth and that these footprints in the rock are of the first man.  

In the third room there is a collection of statues made at Mua that illustrate the other two tribes of Malawi; the Yao and the Ngoni. All the beadwork is ether original, collected by Fr. Boucher or reproduced on the mission grounds by a team of artists that has studied and recovered the art of bead working.  

On the walls of this room a collection of photo illustrates the passages of life of these two tribes. The initiation rites of the Yao, a predominantly Muslim people are fascinating. The Ngoni are related to the Swazi people of South Africa and are very proud of their warrior origin and the role of their chiefs in the traditional life. The burial and instalment of a new chief is illustrated in great details.       

 

The role of Masks in Chewa Society and their meaning.

Masks have always played an important part in traditional African tribal life, each tribe having its own style and characters that reflect its history, traditions and beliefs.  The Chewa Tribe in fact was created from the union of two separate tribes many years ago, the Banda and the Malawi.   It was and is a matriarchal society that believes in one God, who has both male and female qualities.  Almost, if not as important as God, is the role-played by the Ancestors in the day-to-day life of the Chewa people.  The Ancestors, or dead Kings, Queens, tribal elders and family members have very specific functions to perform in ensuring that tribal traditions and values are passed on to each successive generation.  Those of Royal descent are responsible for rainfall, and matters regarding the overall well-being of the nation as a whole, whilst those of ordinary family members support the family and community generally and are responsible for matters of fertility, general health and the personal needs of individuals.  Together, these spirits can be considered benevolent and involved in all-important aspects of domestic life and that of the nation as a whole.  They are the teachers of what is the accepted morality of the tribe who also ensures that the traditional way of life and the culture are kept alive. 

There are, however, a third group of spirits who are malevolent.  These spirits have chosen not to follow the way of the Ancestors and must be considered as outsiders or troublemakers.  From time to time, they manage to influence the lives of individuals causing ill-health, failure to adhere to the accepted way of life as taught by the Ancestors and other such negative effects that the community need to guard against and expunge whenever their presence is noted.

One of the ways that the message of the Ancestors is passed on is though the use of masks worn by the men of the tribe on many occasions, but particularly during ceremonies performed to mark what are considered the most important moments of life.  There are probably about 10,000 different masks in all, each having a specific purpose or message to pass on.  During the rites that are performed at birth, the onset of puberty, marriage and death, these masks are used to pass on the moral code and traditional way of life as lived by the Ancestors, helping those alive to grow psychologically, physically and spiritually.  The colours used to decorate the masks, and the particular materials used, as well as the costumes of those who wear the masks and the songs and dances performed, are all part of the means used to convey a message or lesson on life, from the Ancestors to their descendants.

The masks considered to be of Banda origin are of predominantly dark colours, particularly black, but also different shades of brown or grey.  Banda in fact means “black-cloud”.  The Malawi masks on the other hand incorporate red and other fire-like colours.  The Malawi people were also known as the Phiri, the word in the local language means mountains – also known as flames of fire.  When the two tribes joined, the masks subsequently created used both styles and colours to reflect the political and cultural changes and dangers that existed at the time – a period that extended from around the 14th to 16th centuries.  Later on, during colonisation, the same thing happened, although on this occasion, the “red” masks were used to show how the latest arrivals – the Europeans – were changing the way of life and effecting the local cultural traditions.  The establishment of the numerous missionaries, set on converting all and sundry to Christianity was greeted with yet more masks, and even today, modern politicians are represented with predominantly pink red and yellow masks – although wisdom dictates that these latest creations are not too mocking or derogatory.  

 

Mua Mission, is about an hour and half by car from Club Makokola. The road is partly tarred and its conditions depend on the time of the year and what maintenance has been carried out, it crosses the alluvial plains around the western gulf of the lake. The mission is located at the foothills of the Dedza range that delimit the Rift Valley. The Catholic White Fathers founded it in 1903. It was not the first catholic mission in the Country, but it is the oldest surviving one. The White Fathers at Mponda founded the first mission in 1889.

The scenery along the road is typical of the alluvial Rift Valley, during the rainy season most of it turns into a marsh. The conditions of the road deteriorate but the beautiful bird life that comes to feed on the frogs and fish more than make up for the bumpy ride. During the dry season herds of cattle feed on the grass, cotton is grown during the harvest you can see it been sorted and sold at the various villages the roads traverses. On the side of the road the woman sell local delicacies, the most sort after being the smoked field mice popular during the dry season.

The Mission building
At the mission the old buildings erected by the first missionaries are still standing. They are probably the best-conserved colonial buildings in the country. Different to most colonial buildings in this country they are more of the French Provencal style than the typical British colonial one, as the first fathers were from France.

The attraction of Mua is not just the buildings but its Kungoni Art Craft Centre and its Chamare Museum. Fr. Claude Boucher, a Canadian White Father, founded them during his studies of the traditions and mythologies of the local people to better explain to them the teachings of Christianity. During his work amongst the people he recognised the richness of Malawian oral tradition and the danger it was in of been completely erased by western influence. He has now dedicated his life to recoding and preserving a rich culture that till recently had been passed down only orally.


Carver at work

He first founded an artistic school to encourage local talent to express themselves through the traditional media of woodcarving and to experiment with painting. With time he managed to earn the complete trust of the people. He is amongst the very few white men to have been initiated in the secret ritual societies of the Chewa, the Guru Wan Kulu. During the course of his work he has managed to collect over 1,500 masks used in Guru Wan Kulu ritual. These masks are not the more common wooden ones that are offered to the visitors for sale, but ones that represent characters and transmit messages understood only by the members of the secret societies. Each mask has a specific meaning with a specific lifespan. It will ether die with its creator or when the character it portrays is non-longer a matter of concern, each one is unique. Most of these can be seen in the museum. 

At Mua it is also possible to buy some of the best carvings in Malawi. Each object is hand made and represents some aspect of Malawian life, they vary in size and budget to suit all pockets and can be transported very easily. Work from the Kungoni Centre can now be found all over the worlds. Some has recently been put on show in the Vatican Museum as well as in Munich and in many private collections in Europe and the USA. 

On arrival at the mission ones attention is first captured by the Museum, located in a complex composed of three round buildings representing traditional huts. In the first room there is an exhibition explaining the history of missionaries in Africa, this is accompanied by symbols of the local mythology. In the second room you can see part of the vast collection of masks from the Guru Wan Kulu society. Visitors are asked not to photograph them, as this would contravene Society rules. Along the walls of this room a photographic exhibition shows the major passages of Chewa life starting with birth and going though initiations, marriage ending with death and burial practices, a very important aspect of Malawian life. The Chewa is the dominant tribe of Malawi. Understanding the meaning of these passages through life will help understand the working of the Malawian mind, an essential element if one is to leave Malawi with a small understanding of the country. In the third room an exhibition of sculptors and photos will explain the passage of life of the other two main tribal groups of the country, the Ngoni and the Yao. Connecting the three rooms are small passages where Iron Age artefacts and rock paintings are on show. The rock paintings are fascinating and contrary to most beliefs some are very recent!


Mural on the outside of the Museum

On the out side of the building we find a series of panels each portaging an event in Malawian history starting with the creation of the world according to Chewa folklore to the foundation of Mua Mission. The value of the muse is obviously more then the intrinsic value of its collections, for the first time an attempt was carried out to explain to the local population the value of its past and to illustrate the intricacy and richness of Malawi tradition to the foreign visitor.

 

At the end of the visit to the museum it is possible to visit the old mission building, still being used for its original function and to admire the murals in the church. A picnic lunch is had in the well-kept ground of the mission before a visit to the shop to buy a memento of the visit or simply to look around.


Mission grounds.

     


Malawian Children

                                           


Main Mission House with the second floor added in 1913                                  

 


The Mission House seen from the side wig, the Church is in the background

 


















Carver at work

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Carving School

 


The Chamare Museum

 


The Garden with the suspension Bridge


 
Arial View of the mission garden

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The steam just under the mission

The Chamare Museum at Mu Mission

By Fr. Claude Boucher Chisale WF

The Name.

The name chosen for the museum complex is a tribute to the labour of the workers of the first hour, the first generation of missionaries whose task was to plant the Mua mission, sometime in very difficult conditions. Many names are recalled in the memory of the people of this region but the name Chamare stands out particularly. Fr. Jean-Baptiste Champamartin, nicknamed Chamare, is seen as the foundation stone of Mua and the force, which empowered the mission to rise to what it is today. This is precisely what the spiral on which his name is inscribed suggests. 

 

The Man.

Fr. Chapamrtin was a White father born in France on 7th September 1879, who for most of his missionary career worked at Mua (from 1906 to 1949) and died at Kasina Mission, near Lintipe on 3rd August 1950. A thin, pale man with a thundering voice, he spoke fluent Chichewa, and produced a colloquial translation of the gospels which, together with his homilies, held congregations spellbound. He had a warm love and deep respect for the villagers and easily won their esteem and confidence. He had a special gift in dealing with the elders and the chiefs, and behaved and was treated like one. He was an extremely generous and genuine person, ever close to people, even to lepers. He was once criticised by his own superiors for allowing lepers to come into the mission house with their belongings. He shared whatever he owned.  

Fr. Champmartin was a man of many talents. An excellent writer, we can appreciate his sense of humour, and of details as well as his wit, when we read the mission diaries that he wrote for more than 20 years. Both, a skilled carpenter and builder, he was the instigator of the school of carpentry and the Mua shop. He was also a driving force behind the construction of the dam and the installation of the hydro plant, which is still in operation today. The Mua mahogany forest and many other giant trees on the premises owe their presence to him. Moreover, the people and especially the Ngoni, remember him as an expert in litigation. He felt perfectly at ease with all the complexities of the African law. He was an indefatigable supervisor of village school and churches that he visited regularly. He was equally eager to take part in the training of bush schoolteachers. When Edel Quinn appeared in Africa with her Legio Maria in 1940, he saw he movement as an ideal way of influencing the daily life of the villagers.  

Chamare’s Link to the museum comes from his openness, his common sense and his ability to appreciate the Malawian as she/he is. He was known for his attitude of listening, for his receptivity in meeting people. Though he was the product of his time and culture, he was nevertheless able to marvel and enjoy their company. That is why he could learn their language to perfection, litigate with their own law and appreciate the wisdom they taught. It is precisely in this spirit that the Mua Mission invites you to visit its Chamare Museum.   

 

The Architecture of the Building

The last mural unfolding our local history portrays the arrival of Frs. Louveau, Perrot and Bro. Wilfrid at Mua and the pitching of their tents around the baobab tree. Elderly people around the mission still remember this tree which is gone now. They say it was in the vicinity of the site where the museum is constructed. The architecture intends to recall this event. The museum complex represents those tents around the baobab. First of all, the museum wants to be a tribute of thanks to those three pioneers and to those who followed them. Furthermore, it wants to recognise all the people who have come to settle in the area and who have made its culture so rich and so varied. Like the fathers who have planted their tents around the tree, these groups coming from different directions, each one with its own personality and culture, have settled in this very region. Our local history on the murals allows us to discover them. The first group to join the Akafula (Bushmen) around 1,000AD, the earliest owners of the land, were the Chewa (Banda-Phiri). Later on, around 1850’s, the Yao and the Ngoni settled among them. The missionaries were the last in 1902 to pitch their tents in their midst. The museum wants to dedicate to each one of these groups a tent of its own in which their contributions will be discussed. It is from their mutual inter-action that the cultural heritage we enjoy today was born. The Mission, as the last arrival, invites you to enter into this wealth and wisdom.

 

The Baobab.

This tree, for Malawians, is sacred! It is the centre of village life. Symbolising communion and community, it is the seat of the ancestral spirits and the way that leads to the Supreme Being himself. All the main rituals that punctuate the life of the community take place under a tree. This is where the villagers enter into communion with the presence above at the period of drought in order to beg for rain and life, or at the time of harvest in order to offer thanksgiving; where the teenagers leave behind their childhood and receive maturity; where a mother-to-be is instructed into the facts of life at the time of her first pregnancy. It is also where a chief and an elder are enthroned as leaders of the community, and where a persons that has died takes leave of the relatives before departing to the sacred grove to be received by the ancestral spirits.

 

It is also there, under the shade of the tree, that the community renews its faith in each other. They gather to listen to the advice of the ancestors through their Gule Wamkulu. There, they share wisdom and insight. They resolve their misunderstandings and differences. There they share food and drink, and pass on trades and skills. Accordingly, the tree appears as a powerful symbol of reconciliation, tolerance, growth, continuity, exchange, sharing and dialogue at its highest level. In this light, the tree at the centre of the three museum buildings takes on a profound meaning that will be spelled out in the Museum’s objectives. 

The Chamare Museum aims at:

·         Exposing the Malawians to their own heritage and fostering in their heart a genuine sense of the respect and pride for their own culture.

 

·         Assisting them in preserving and developing their own cultural expression. The mission tent and the open-air theatre provide opportunities for the different village communities to cultivate and stimulate their creativity in this field.

 

·        Equipping the people with the knowledge and understanding of their own richness, not as something old-fashioned, belonging to the past, but as a living spirit which enables them to make a choice with regard to what is considered genuine and integral development to be. With this knowledge, they will appreciate beyond the rituals and the cultural forms, the very values that make them. How can the same values that have modelled their ancestors continue today to transform him and prepare him for the future?

 

·         Beside the two rooms that deal with Chewa-Angoni-Yao material, the museum provides facilities for projections that ensure such exposure enabling them to share their cultural wealth with others, not out of pride but out of a deep conviction that is what is meaningful for them, is also worth sharing. Many visitors and collaborators in different fields of development encounter Malawians every year. They notice the Malawian’s peacefulness, genteelness and politeness: and they wonder about the secret. Why are they always joyful and kind? Do they not have problems sometimes? Let the Malawian tell them why. Let him explain who he is and what made him thus! The museum will whisper the answer with him!    

 

·        Above all, the Museum aims at building up unity among the people: in bridging the different tribal backgrounds (Chewa, Ngoni and Yao) as a positive contribution towards a common growth and the setting up as a national heritage. Each culture found its own way of dealing with the human experience and responded to it in a variety of patterns proper to each group. A genuine encounter with Achewa, Angoni, Ayao can provide a means of moving beyond tribal boundaries and one’s own feeling of superiority and open ones heart to a real person rich in talents and wisdom. The museum wants to contribute to the cause of unity in overcoming the separation between towns and villages, between the different educational systems (western education and traditional teaching) by discovering one’s own roots and building up a strong sense of belonging.

 

·        Ultimately the museum hopes to gather people of different religious allegiances (Christians, Muslims and those who practise traditional religion). The conference hall can provide a forum for the discussion and contribute to an inter-faith dialogue, breaking down prejudices, pride and intolerance, allowing them to sit together around the tree to exchange and learn from each other. Moreover, it’s only through the discovery of one’s own roots and values and through living them that one can be true to oneself and serve meaningfully his own religious affiliation. In this regard, the museum voices a further wish that of being a positive contribution to the work of the Malawi church towards enculturation of the Christian message. This echoes the voice of the African Synod of 1994: “The traditional religions have much to teach us in our efforts to enculturate the Christian faith”. The museum therefore invites you to reflect on how God Himself has been preparing Malawi to welcome the gospel values through inspiring its own.


Dr. Champion, a traditional Zinganga or healer at the Mangochi market


The KuNgoni Art Craft Centre: History, Persons, Work

Extract from: African Theology in Images by Martin Ott, published by Kachere Series.  

The KuNgoni Art Centre in Mua, Malawi must certainly be regarded as one of the most outstanding art craft centers in Africa. For several reasons it has become one of the most important producers of Christian art in the entire continent. We propose this view with confidence because KuNgoni is, according to our present knowledge and careful research throughout Africa, the only art centre on the continent where the three domains of theology, anthropology and African art consistently seek and find a successful synthesis. The work is not limited to religious subject but to the general thyme of African life, sculptures, carvings in bas-relief, moulded statues and vessels from the centre can be found in the presidential palaces of Malawi, Tanzania, Mozambique and Zambia. The royal family of the United Kingdom and Pope John Paul II possess carvings from Mua. (The Papal collection can now be seen in the anthropological section of the Vatican Museums.) Many pieces have also been sent all over the world for private collections and museums.

 

The background of the Art Centre at Mua.

In 1976 the KuNgoni Art Craft Centre was founded on the premises of the Catholic parish in Mua, a village on the eastern slope of the Dedza Plateau within sight of Lake Malawi. Founded by the White Fathers in 1902, the present parish in Mua, Our Lady of Perpetual Help, belongs to Dedza Diocese. Since, however, the true beginnings of the KuNgoni Art Craft Centre are inextricably linked with the story of its founder, Fr. Claude Boucher, they go back far beyond 1976. 

Claude Boucher was born in Montreal, Canada, on 2nd August 1941. Very early in his life he became fascinated by Africa through the many hours spent in an African museum in his hometown. At the age of four he started to draw and to work in pastels, having inherited his artistic talent from his mother who is a painter. Throughout his childhood illustrated books of Africa which inspired him to draw and mould exotic animals enthralled him. In nearby Longueuil Claude Boucher attended a Franciscan secondary school whose staff recognised his artistic talents very early and promoted them as much as possible. During this period Claude experimented with a variety of artistic techniques, including: painting, the moulding of statues, pottery making, and collage. Between the ages of seventeen and eighteen he organised two successive exhibitions, one in Longueuil and the other at Saint Jean d’Iberville. Both were very successful. In 1962 the youthful Claude Boucher felt called to become a priest and, more specifically, to join the Society of the Missionaries of Africa, popularly known as the White Fathers. He was not the first in his family to follow a missionary vocation. One aunt was a religious sister working in Mzuzu Diocese in Malawi from 1949; another aunt, also a religious sister, was working in Haiti. At the time of his entry into the seminary Claude was convinced that he should leave his artistic career behind. In fact, the day before he moved into the major seminary he painted a huge canvas, convinced that this would be the last painting of his life: the painting depicted a bird in flight. To be a priest and an artist at the same time seemed to him to constitute an irreconcilable contradiction. His teachers at the major seminary of Eastview, now Vanier, solidified this view by always encouraging the young man to leave behind what the theology of the time called the “old Adam”. But when the church needed to be decorated for Christmas and other major feasts, they were quick to remember the artistic talents of the young seminarian. Nevertheless, in accordance with the contemporary authoritarian system of the seminary, the young student was allowed to paint only at the request of his superiors. In his rare hours of privacy, however, Claude Boucher was permitted to paint for himself some small meditation pictures in which he tried to depict his spiritual experiences. During the following years Claude Boucher was occasionally requested to produce some minor commissions for the community despite the priority placed on his priestly vocation. In this way he came to create some cribs in plaster, liturgical tapestries, altar decorations, and meditation pictures of Mary, the Mother of God. During his time at the seminary he also wrote and produced a stage play about the martyrs of Uganda. For the performance he designed the costumes, background scenery and stage props. Finally, he was asked to organise an exhibition of photos whose theme was the change in the concept of missions.  

In 1967 Montreal hosted the World Exhibition. The Christian pavilion was to display an exhibit entitled L’Homme dèchirè, the intention of which was to depict graphically to the public the appalling hunger existing in the world, and the reality of a human race, which was already torn apart and continuing to tear itself to pieces. Claude Boucher was appointed head of the team that was to decorate the pavilion. Not only did he co-ordinate the whole exhibition, but he also contributed some collages himself. Despite his own earlier intentions and the ascetical mindset of his superiors at the seminary, when Claude Boucher was ordained priest on 18th June 1967, he cannot be said to have left behind the old man, the artist. What he had begun, in fact, was the integration of the “old man” of culture with the “new man” of religion. Keeping in mind this aspect of his life is vital for grasping his own self-understanding as a missionary as well as his future work at the centre. It will also, as we shall see, have certain theological implications for this study.

In December 1967, when Claude Boucher arrived in Malawi, his first appointment was to Kasina, a mission station of the White Fathers located between Dedza and Lilongwe. There he started work as a priest and missionary and learned the local language, Chewa. Soon after his arrival he started to create a series of slides to be called “The Good News of Jesus Christ”. This effort would turn out to be a huge media package produced over a period of four years. The immensity of the project gives a clear insight into the young missionary’s early endeavour to Africanise catechism and theology with the help of images. In more than 2,000 photos Claude Boucher re-created biblical scenes featuring Malawians in the Malawian countryside. This he did deliberately in order to demonstrate that Christ has become man not only in Palestine but also in Malawi. Although photography was a new and unfamiliar medium for him as an artist, he gradually mastered the technical difficulties involved. A few years later Claude Boucher explained his initial vision in an article for a Canadian journal. 

“I asked myself how Malawians might be helped to recognise Jesus as their brother. For them it doesn’t matter very much whether Jesus has a white or black face. What is far more important is whether his attitude and behavior are African, What are the paths on which he walks and what are the landscapes he moves through? Happily Malawi is very similar to the Holy Land in many ways. We have mountains and valleys, lakes and rivers, sites that resemble uncannily Mount Tabor, the Book of Kedron, Lake Genessaret and the Jordan River.” 

After an intensive search Claude Boucher found a young man named Johannes who, because of his relaxed photogenic manner and exemplary way of life, was chosen to represent Jesus. Out of the 2,000 photos taken, Claude Boucher eventually selected 261 slides, which he then combined with biblical texts. This media project was hugely successful and widely used in the pastoral work of other missionaries in Malawi. Through pictures more effectively than through mere preaching of the Word, Claude Boucher was able to reach the heart, the soul and the spirit of the people. Other audio-visual material followed, portraying the parables, creation and other themes. Claude Boucher said: “I had a technicolor dream: the dream of letting the Gospel shine in the hues and tints of ordinary day-to-day life in Malawi.” It may be said that these first works of Claude Boucher in Malawi represent in a concrete form the two phases, which T. Sundermeier has identified, as the way Christian art in Africa generally develops. According to this scholar the first phase in which “biblical history is depicted as taking place in Africa, is followed by a second more profound phase, in which the artists discover Africa already present in the Bible”. 

In 1968 Fr. Boucher was transferred to Nsipe in Ntcheu district where he was to stay till 1973. There he continued his work on the project “The Good News of Jesus Christ”. This move actually caused some problems because there were fewer people available to become involved either as subjects of or technicians in the photography. In Nsipe Claude Boucher was to become more deeply involved in the liturgical aspect of pastoral work. More and more frequently he was asked to decorate churches. At the same time he started to discover young talent: artists and craftsmen who would be able to assist him in his work. Among the first was a middle-aged man named Lenardi Chikasasa already renowned as a very good carver of mortars. For the church at Nsipe he asked this Akamitondo (the nickname means “mortar-carver” in Chewa), to create an alter using a decorated mortar as its pedestal and to carve a tabernacle in the shape of a maize store. The results were to encourage the man to undertake further work of this kind and on the other, Akamitondo himself developed a keen interest in this new field of carving. Soon he moved to Nsipe and settled next to the mission station where he worked at perfecting his skills. With him arrived Che’square, Chebwanali and Jibu Sani, who also wanted to become carvers. Like Akamitondo the three new artists were from Chingale, a Yao village at the foot of the western scarp of the Zomba plateau. 

In 1970 Claude Boucher met a young man named Tambala Mponyami who would become a very skilled painter. With this gifted fellow-artist, Claude Boucher was to decorate a great many churches in the years that followed. Tambala Mponyami became one of Claude Boucher’s best friends and was in time appointed his administrative deputy at the KuNgoni Art Craft Centre in Mua, a post that he held until his death on 4th September 1997. 

In 1970 and 1971 the team of artists decorated their first church. At that time an old barn formerly used for drying tobacco served as the parish church at Nsipe. Akamitondo carved a second mortar, which was used together with his first one as a base for the new altar. The use of traditional mortars as pedestals for the altar represented the first attempt of the team to create contextual Christian art. The underlying concept for the design of the altar came from the every day life of the village. As maize is the staple food for Malawians, without which they can neither survive nor lead reasonably happy lives, so bread of the Eucharist is for Christians the food for their spiritual survival and well being. Other furnishings for the church that followed the same motif as the altar included: the pulpit in the form of a fertile maize stalk, and the tabernacle in the form of a traditional granary for the storage of maize. Also intricately carved were the seats within the sanctuary, the offertory table, and some statues. The walls of this first church were decorated with motifs from the Ngoni tribe, originally a cattle keeping people whose culture still prevails in the Nsipe area. Already in this, their first church, the artists deliberately used local materials in order to express their appreciation of what is truly African. The use of local wood, materials, and colours remains an important feature of the art centre even today. In this way the local culture contributes not only the themes but also the materials for their execution. 

At Nsipe, Claude Boucher and Akamitondo began to give courses to talented artists who lived on the mission station at that time as well as to anyone else interested enough to come and learn. Perhaps the most important milestone of these early years is the figure of the risen Christ that Akamitondo dared to carve in 1970. It took some time before the ‘mortar-carver” Akamitondo felt equal to the task of carving a human form. The cruciform body is about 140cm high and portrays Christ nailed on a shield of bark cloth. Although his feet are nailed as a sign of his crucifixion, his face is lifted up, signifying his resurrection. In a powerful use of symbolism the arms of this Christ are spread in a wide arc as a sign of his desire to include all humanity in the mystery of the resurrection and redemption. This represents a remarkable sculptural accomplishment for an artist who at the time was not even a Christian, but a follower of the traditional religion of Malawi. Today the original sculpture of the risen Christ decorates the church in Bilila. Through it Akamitondo received recognition, acknowledgment, praise and his first orders from outside the immediate vicinity of Nsipe. For the entrance hall of Monfort Press in Limbe he carved a figure of the risen Christ. For the contemplative community of Poor Clares in Lilongwe he carved a statue of Our Lady as a pregnant young woman. 

By 1972 a small team of artists were working at Nsipe. In addition to Akamitondo and Tambala Mponyami, the carver, Jibu Sani and the painter Kay Chiromo were making great strides. Kay Chiromo would later become one of Malawi’s foremost artists, as well as art scholar, art educator and the nominal head of the tiny art section of the University of Malawi in Zomba. As time went by, Akamitondo and Jibu Sani regularly had from five to six students working under their tutelage. These men can justifiably be considered to be the “first generation” of KuNgoni’s painters and carvers, for it was they who laid the foundation for the future students by means of their own work of art and the training they gave. They constitute the living foundation of the centre. It must be admitted that the first attempts of these young men were not, in general, spiritually inspired. What was paramount for them at this stage was the expression of their feelings and the mastery gained by experimenting with new materials and forms. 

Jibu Sani, who was second only to Akamitondo in this first generation of carvers came from Bwanausi, a village that is still well know for its carvings. Jibu Sani’s grandfather was the head of the Muslim community in nearby Chingale village. When he went to Dar-es-Salam for religious formation in Islam, he learnt of the Makonde carvers. Adopting their technique, he brought it back to Malawi where he passed it on to his son and grandson. This is why Jibu Sani’s works from early 1970’s testify so strongly to his inheritance of the Makonde tradition. Before coming to Nsipe, Jibu Sani dealt only with “profane” subjects, and used only ebony, which, together with ivory, is the chief material, used by the Makonde. In his early efforts his figures are always marked by the same stiff expression. His scenes of ordinary life, of which the best example is “The Man with the Hoe”, are carved in a very simple yet deeply impressive style. In Jibu Sani’s case, devotion to Islam seemed to be primarily a way of being faithful to his ancestors and to carving tradition that he took over from his father and his grandfather. For him Islam was not seen as an obstacle in his approach to Christian themes or African Traditional Religion. Akamitondo, on the contrary, who was originally a disciple of traditional African religion, started right from the beginning to deal with religious themes, including those of Christianity. 

As the men worked together, they began to develop a common style, though the individual artists never gave up their personal styles. The Europeans understanding of an autonomous artist, who is not completely rigid even in Europe generally assumes that the work of the artist is “his”. African artists, on the other hand, are far more aware that every work of art owes a great deal to the community from which it comes. Moreover, at KuNgoni teamwork produced common works and it is not always possible to trace from which work any particular artist could claim. Looking back to this first close-knit group of artists, Claude Boucher remarks: “It is thanks to the continuous co-operation at Nsipe that the most beautiful works were developed. In the group of artists who worked on the mission station, one produced the draft, or the rough wood block, a second the feet, a third the hands or the face, each one according to his capacities. At every stage they discussed the results together and exchanged their experiences.” 

In these first works from Nsipe we recognise important concepts which characterise the later works of the KuNgoni Art Centre. 

In 1972, when the artists were invited to attend the catechetical congress in Nairobi, they gained a reputation outside Malawi for the first time. They displayed some of their work at this congress for which Jibu Sani carved his first figure of Christ. 

By this time the men had already been discussing for quite a while the possibility of establishing a common art centre. They had already identified potential premises at Nsipe. But Claude Boucher knew that a deepening of his anthropological knowledge ought to be gained before beginning work on so grand a scale. During his stay at Nsipe he gained the confidence of the people, who had generously given him access to their culture and religion. In fact, they allowed him to be initiated into the secret society of the gule wamkulu (variously translated as the “great” dancer or the “initiation’ dance), a privilege rarely given to outsiders. Claude Boucher believed that this newly acquired knowledge had great potential for the effective pastoral work. The same was true of the works of art, for the teamwork of the artists had led them nearer and nearer to their historical and cultural roots. Without the tools with which to assess this heritage, however, he would risk missing some fundamental principles necessary to underpin the program of enculturation envisioned for the future. For this reason Claude Boucher went to study for nine months at the Gaba Pastoral Institute of AMECA in Eldoret, Kenya. After that he did field research in Zambia and Malawi, and finally he attended the Institute for Oriental and African studies in London, where he completed a special study of the anthropology of the ethnic groups of Malawi. Meanwhile at Nsipe, the physical laying of the foundation stone for the KuNgoni Art Centre was postponed, but the idea for it had already been born and lived on in the hearts of the artists awaiting Claude Boucher’s return.


The Foundation of the KuNgoni Art Craft Centre

After his return from London, Claude Boucher and his co-workers began in earnest to plan the art centre to be established at Nsipe. However, the Bishop of Dedza, Cornelius Chitsulo, did not agree with them on the proposed location. He wanted to have the centre in his home parish of Mua. The Bishop’s preference led to prolonged deliberations. After his studies, Claude’s vision of the function and policies of the future art centre was clear. The main emphasis would remain the teamwork of local artists and their own discussions of the various cultural traditions of Malawi. Already at Nsipe they had began to incorporate more and more certain themes from their ancestral religion into their work. Among these, the gule wamkulu and the initiation rites themselves played a particularly important role. In this latter theme lay the nub of the difficulty. Whereas mostly Ngoni inhabits Nsipe, Mua is mostly inhabited by Chewa. Among the latter tribe the gule wamkulu, plays an immensely important role. It was easy to foresee that the centre would have problems with the secret societies if foreigners (mainly the Ngoni and Yao artists) depicted their rites and traditions in a more or less public art centre. Moreover important cult sites of the Traditional Religion like the rain shrine of Mankhamba are located near Mua. Since the Chewa normally did the carving of traditional masks in secret, what would happen if the non-initiated carvers went into the villages to study the masks and traditional rituals? How would the people of Mua react to a public production of masks, even if these masks were not meant for ritual use? Would the members of gule wamkulu regard the carvers as competitors? Finally, would the people perceive this new enterprise as a continuation of the old struggle between the Ngoni and the Chewa? In actual fact conflicts between the Catholic Church and gule wamkulu had been very violent in Mua in the past. Nsipe did not pose the same potential ethnical problems as Mua, for the secret societies at Nsipe were more tolerant. At Mua the possible consequences of the use of ritual masks in church decoration or for pastoral work had to be taken into account.

 

To complicate matters further, Bishop Chitsulo had his own agenda for the proposed art centre. He wanted the place to produce pious religious articles reflecting a European, rather than an African approach. Moreover, the bishop saw the centre as a kind of income generating activity that would offer employment to potential workers from his home parish. For these reasons, Claude Boucher and his co-workers were reluctant to establish the art centre in Mua. What the bishop wanted was basically a commercial centre for religious art; what Claude Boucher wanted was an art academy oriented towards the local culture. It must be added that the artists gathered around Claude Boucher genuinely desired to come closer to the local culture. They too wanted to research their own African geographical and cultural context and to express the religious and Christian values of these traditions in their works. 

 

The problems that surround the basic concept of the proposed centre reflected not so much the differences of the personalities involved, but rather two totally opposite theologies of mission. They provide, in fact, an excellent example of the conflicts raging in the post-Vatican II era between different generations of African Christians in a country in which the Catholic Church was trying to find its way. Like its African neighbours during this period, Malawi was slowly progressing from a missionary dominated church to a local church. The conflicts arising from different theologies of mission were also noticeable in the contemporary Malawian episcopate. This is not surprising, for recent sociological studies have shown that for the first, and often the second generation of African Christians, it is almost impossible to arrive at a fearless and free approach to one’s own cultural and religious heritage. In fact, in the Hymns and catechesis of the first half of this century a surprisingly strong recurrent theme is the demand made on the newly baptised convert for a complete rejection of the “old Adam” who is saved by Christianity from his dark pagan past. The first Christians were enjoined to leave behind not only the “old Adam” but also almost everything that could provide fertile soil for their continued existence as Africans in an African culture. It is to be hoped that future generations of Christians will be freer to search for their cultural roots in such a way that they can truly live out this fundamental option of the theology of enculturation.

 

From the artists’ point of view, there was one very practical reason in favour of settling at Mua. The huge forest near Mua would supply excellent wood for carving. Finally, after prolonged discussion a decision was reached. The carvers and Claude Boucher agreed to move to Mua, but not without having insisted on certain conditions before hand. At about the same time the plot of land envisaged for the construction of the centre at Nsipe was given back to the people. In October 1976 the new centre opened its carving workshop in Mua. The artists themselves had not been discouraged by its difficult and troubled beginnings. They had held firmly to their priority. By engaging with the local culture and religion of the people, they would now try to engage their African heritage in a creative way and to search for new forms of expression by which themes of African religious life would add meaning to their Christian faith and lifestyle.

 

From Nsipe, Lenardi Chikasasa (Akamitondo) and his son James together with Jibu Sani and his son Wilson came to Mua with Claude Boucher. In addition, Akamitondo and Jibu Sani had five or six students each, to whom they gave lessons in theory as well as practical work. Towards the end of 1976 Tambala Mponyami moved from Nsipe to Mua so that painting classes could start. Claude Boucher was careful to share his anthropological and theological expertise with all the students who attended courses in Mua. The artists decided to call their centre KuNgoni, after a cataract on the mission premises whose waters thunder down the slope. In their view the centre should be “something refreshing like a shower, water falling from the top. Knowledge and experience gained here should be something refreshing in your life.” Another more important reason for the choice of this name was that by choosing a name other than Mua the artists could avoid too close an association with the Catholic parish itself. In the past the relationship between the Christian churches and traditional religion had been particularly troubled in Mua parish. As a result the artists felt that they had to guard against an over-identification of the centre with the mission. In the same year the artists started with the construction of the huge rondavel, which became the workplace of the carvers. In the early years in Mua, the first generation of carvers slowly developed a “canon’ of themes which they taught to their numerous students. Despite a variety of different problems, the centre was able to continue its task of taking root in the local culture and thus furthering the process if enculturation. The artists decorated a number of churches, carved large panels in bas-relief, and produced large sculptures as well as many smaller items. Although they needed commissioned works in order to finance the centre and to generate income for artists, the artists understood their work to be in and for the local church, and did not produce works for export in the beginning. For quite a few years they did so only occasionally and by exception. After having experimented for some years with various church decorations, in 1982 for the first time, the artists designed a huge wall painting expressing the general concept of enculturation. Measuring eight metres by three meters, the klajlpicture was commissioned for the church of Milala in the diocese of Zomba. In it the parable of the fishermen, is depicted in a landscape exactly like the western shore of Lake Chirwa where Milala is located. The first stage of the history of the KuNgoni Art Centre may be said to have ended in the same year.   

 

New Artists and Big Orders.

By 1984 a new group of about ten master carvers was firmly established in Mua. They were able, according to their cultural background and ability, to execute successfully the challenging commissions received by the centre. By this time the process of becoming familiar with the local history and culture was in a sense complete. Many of the artists had been initiated into the Chewa nyau secret society and had become socially established in one or another of the villages around Mua.

 

Commissions were usually handled in this way: The customer explained his idea, which was then discussed at the centre in order to ascertain who was best equipped to undertake the commission, eventually it was decided which artist or artists would undertake the work requested. By this process the artists were protected from the direct influence of the customers and could thus retain control over their own work. The same approach was used with regards to the decorating of churches and to personal commissions for smaller items. Before any artist accepted a commission, he had to demonstrate his competence with regard to the cultural background demanded by the particular work. During the first years most orders came from missionaries and international institutions, but in later years more and more orders came from Malawian priests, bishops, seminaries and government institutions. This fact alone stands as a major tribute to KuNgoni centre because in a low-income country like Malawi little money can be spared for the luxury of good art.

 

In 1985 the KuNgoni Art Centre reached a landmark in its history. By the end of that year all the essential buildings of the centre were completed and fully equipped. Apart from the buildings of Mua mission itself, the Centre comprised: the main building with storerooms, classroom and exhibition rooms; three big rondavels for the carvers, painters and potters; accommodation for the artists in residence; and a guest house. The whole complex is set in a miniature zoological park and botanical garden in which some of the smaller animals of Malawi live in captivity. Next to each animal’s cage is a small signboard on which is indicated the zoological name of the animal and a Malawian proverb about it. Even the plants and trees on the premises are labelled with information signboards. This aspect of the centre supplies models for the artists to draw or carve, but it is also designed to arouse in them and in all visitors an appreciation and respect for the whole of creation. It is in this environment that the artists work and live with their families. To this diminutive paradise they invite their visitors for learning and for aesthetic pleasure. In actual fact, a central theme of the work of the centre is the myth of Kaphirintiwa, which depicts a moment of creation, in which nature, animal, God and humankind lived together in peace. The approach to Malawian traditions in the KuNgoni Art Centre may in fact be said to include the laying out of the centre as a “religious bio system’.

In 1991 the foundations of the Chamare Museum were laid at Mua next to the art centre. The museum is housed in three large rondavels which are reminiscent of the three huts set up around a Baobab tree by the first White Fathers when the settled at Mua in 1902. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gule Wamkulu masks near Mua Mission


The first catholic missionaries at Mponda’s


Missionary taking a catechism class

    
Rita Kafulama, the last Mwali or rain priestess

 

 

 

 

 


First African nuns in Nyasaland

 


 
Ngoni woman


Which doctor’s utensil now also used in Christian services   


Nun travelling in a
Machila

 


Workmen making bricks for the mission building


Map showing the smoothen most salve rout in 1880’s

  Villages and traditional shrines around Mua